How to Iron Silk Without Damaging It

Silk, from a silk scarf to a robe, often needs no ironing at all: smooth it with your hands while it is still slightly damp, let it dry flat, and most creases fall out. When a crease stays, the rules are simple: low heat, the reverse side, a cloth between the iron and the silk, and never a dry iron on dry silk. Here is how to do it, and how to use a steamer instead.

Before you start

• Check the care label. Some silk pieces, especially those with trim or lining, say "do not iron".
• Make sure the silk is clean. Heat sets stains, and an iron will fix a mark you have not noticed.
• Clean the iron's soleplate. Any residue on it will transfer to the silk.
• Empty the steam tank, or turn steam off. Drips from an iron leave water spots on silk.

How to iron silk, step by step

1. Set the iron to its lowest setting, usually marked "silk" or a single dot. Let it heat fully so the temperature is steady.

2. Turn the piece inside out, or lay it face down, so you press the reverse side. The face is the side heat marks first, especially on glossy silk.

3. Lay a pressing cloth over the silk. A clean, thin cotton cloth or a cotton handkerchief is enough. It spreads the heat and stops the iron from leaving a shine.

4. Work on silk that is very slightly damp, evenly all over. If the piece is already dry, dampen it evenly in cool water and roll it in a towel rather than spraying it. Droplets on dry silk can leave rings.

5. Press, don't push. Lower the iron, hold for a second or two, lift and move. Sliding the iron back and forth can stretch the weave.

6. Let it cool flat before you wear it, fold it or hang it, so the creases you removed don't come back.

Steaming silk

A handheld steamer is often easier than an iron for silk, especially for robes, long scarves and anything with drape. Hang the piece, hold the steamer a few inches away, and move it slowly from top to bottom. Don't let the head touch the fabric and don't hold it in one place. Let the silk dry completely before wearing it.

No steamer? Hang the piece in the bathroom while you shower, away from direct spray. The steam relaxes light creases.

By piece

Scarves. Press square and long silk scarves from the reverse, through a cloth, working from the center out. If your scarf has a rolled hem, press up to the hem, not on it; a rolled hem is meant to stay rounded. For deep creases from a knot, dampen just that band evenly and press.

Pillowcases. Usually don't need ironing: smooth them flat while damp. If you iron one, press the inside.

Robes and pajamas. Steam them on a hanger, or press collar, cuffs and front panels from the reverse. See our silk robe care guide.

What to avoid

• High heat. Silk scorches at temperatures a cotton setting reaches easily, and a scorch mark cannot be removed.
• Ironing the glossy face directly. It leaves shiny marks.
• Spraying water onto dry silk.
• Starch or sizing sprays. They stiffen silk and can leave residue.
• Ironing over seams and hems hard enough to print their outline through to the face.

If something goes wrong

Shine marks on the face can sometimes be lifted by steaming the area from a distance. Water spots usually disappear if the whole piece is dampened evenly and dried flat. A scorch is permanent, so low heat and a pressing cloth are worth the extra minute.

For washing before you press, see how to wash silk.

Common questions

What temperature do you iron silk at? The lowest setting on the iron, usually marked "silk" or with one dot.

Can you iron silk without a pressing cloth? On the reverse side at the lowest setting, carefully, yes. A cloth makes it much safer.

Can you use steam on silk? Yes, from a steamer held a few inches away. Turn off the steam on an iron, which can drip and spot.